Leading from Taumarunui southwest towards Taranaki, Highway 43 is a seemingly endless curving road through green hills, sheep- and cow farms and more green hills. It's called the “Forgotten World Highway”.
There is nothing
around there but some run down sheds and the rare farmhouse(which, in
most cases, is also a run down shed), the rugged hills, inhabited
only by some lifestock, stretching on beyond the horizon. Most houses
in the area look like they have been built out of what they found on
the next junkyard. Even if they are 'real' houses, they look like
they have been abandoned for decades, with broken windows, collapsed
roofs or cars with deflated tires that show more rust than paint.
The road itself if
adventurous to drive: it crumbles away on both sides or is halfway
overgrown and the earth and rock surrounding it is not secured at
all. Which leaves it with whole lanes blocked by fallen debris,
pieces of the street broken off and fallen down the side into the
bush and for all that, you are lucky if they put up some traffic
cones around it to warn you. Clearing the road or repairing the
damage doesn't seem to be an option. Good we didn't drive this road
by night.
The area had some
industry once and the historic information panels along the road tell
stories of settlers populating it – but there is barely anything
left. We hoped for some nice photogenic remains of the settlement,
but the only tunnel we found was closed down.
All in all, the
drive was a bit depressing – The hills themselves might have been
nice, had the weather been better. It was grey and rainy for the two
days we drove it. The area seems lost, given up, even ghostly
somehow. It does not have the beautiful atmosphere of untouched
nature, but neither is it 'alive' enough with agriculture to feel
like the relaxed kiwi countryside we are used to. A Forgotten World
indeed.
There is one funny
'highlight' on the way, though. About halfway from Taumarunui to
Stratford there is a little nest of a town, rather a bunch of houses
along the street, with as many as 171 inhabitants: The Republic of
Whangamomona.
In 1989, they
declared themselves an independent republic to protest against a
governmental decision concerning the separation of districts.
Today it has
become more of a funny tourist attraction and a reason to have a huge
festival for “Republic day” every two years to elect their
president (former ones are 'Tai the poodle' or 'Billy gumboot the
goat'), have serious sport competitions such as gumboot throwing and
sheep sharing and gather for a couple of drinks in the local
hotel/bar.
For a
few dollars you can even get a passport. :)
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